Chapter 23
byChapter 23
Behind the main hall of Xiangguo Temple, the stalls at Zisheng Gate overflowed with books, paintings, and rare treasures—another treat entirely. A true embroidery master was always skilled in painting and calligraphy. Jin Niang’s own drawing abilities were modest, so she bought pictures she liked and copied them—a handy workaround.
With that in mind, she sent Si Er to wait under the corridor first.
She came across a stall selling paintings and calligraphy and hurried over. “Do you have any works by Xu Xi or Xu Chongsi from the Five Dynasties? If you’ve got anything by Huang Quan too, that would be even better.”
The vendor grinned. “Got ‘em right here.”
“How much?” Jin Niang wasn’t after originals. Thanks to movable type printing, books in the Song Dynasty were cheap, and prints weren’t especially expensive either. For a newly famous painter, a six-panel landscape might cost a bolt of silk or two strings of coins.
Sure enough, the vendor said, “The albums you mentioned are one qian each.”
One qian equaled about two hundred coins. Jin Niang immediately bargained. “How about this—I’ll take all three, and you give me a discount.”
Hearing the haggling, the vendor frowned. “Miss, these are all brand new!”
“They are new, yes, but they’re just reproductions. The paper isn’t even aligned properly, and this kind of paper won’t last more than a year or two. I won’t haggle too hard—three albums for one and a half qian. If you agree, I’ll take them all.” She thought if he refused, she’d just buy one from another stall later.
Seeing Jin Niang take out the money, the vendor pretended to relent. “Fine, fine. Take them. I’ll wrap them up for you. I’m selling at a loss here.”
With the three books in hand, Jin Niang was overjoyed. These artists were pioneers of boneless-style painting and masters of the flower-and-bird school. Since she specialized in embroidering flowers and birds, these albums would keep her work ahead of the pack for two years.
If only she had time to paint freely and design clothes as she pleased.
After buying the albums, she went back for Si Er. Though she had taken Si Er under her wing, it never hurt to hold back some cards—never show your full hand. Too many stories existed where apprentices left their teachers in the dust. Even Madam Chen only gave them scraps of knowledge rather than teaching everything.
“Let’s go. You must be tired—I got carried away with the books,” Jin Niang smiled.
Si Er shook her head. “You let me rest while you worked. It’s all for my good.”
Jin Niang walked out with her and treated her to a bowl of chilled mung bean froth before finding Kuang San’er and heading home. Back at the dormitory, they laid out straw mats. Fang Qiaoling teased, “All that time out, and just a mat to show for it?”
“You all have godmothers doting on you, giving you things. I don’t. I was burning up. If I kept sleeping like that, I’d be sweating buckets all night.” After spreading the mat, Jin Niang sat down to plan how to make the pearl-adorned dress. She counted the pearls—twenty small ones in total. Not enough for a collar or front panels, so she decided to use them on the bodice instead.
Pearl trimmings screamed luxury, so the dress should feature embroidered peonies. Her new album included Xu Xi’s *Red Peonies*, glowing like gems. With peonies on the bodice, she could pair them with tea flowers and long-tailed birds on the front panels—symbolizing longevity and wealth, a lucky combo.
But the showstopper would be a peony-shaped pouch decorated with a long-tailed bird, clasped with a pearl.
Once the idea formed, she went to the storeroom for fabric. The embroiderers lived and breathed needlework from morning till night. Before she knew it, the day passed. Si Er had already brought hot water. Jin Niang smiled. “From now on, bring the basin here. Easier to wash up before going back.”
“’Kay,” Si Er chirped.
After Fang Qiaoling fell asleep, Si Er whispered, “Sister Jin Niang, Qin Shuanger took Nanny Lin, the Second Young Master’s wet nurse, as her godmother today.”
Jin Niang wasn’t surprised. Qin Shuanger clearly had her sights set on becoming a concubine—she blushed whenever the Second Young Master was mentioned. But Jin Niang wouldn’t interfere, as long as Qin Shuanger quit her backstabbing and mischief in the embroidery room.
So she told Si Er, “Don’t sweat it. Let her do what she wants.”
Si Er nodded. Jin Niang added, “These days, I’ll be making clothes for the eldest young lady. Come early, and I’ll walk you through some stitches. Practice diligently, understand?”
“I understand, Sister Jin Niang. After you wash up, I’ll pour the water for you before leaving,” Si Er said with a smile.
Jin Niang nodded.
After her bath, as Jin Niang prepared to rest, Qin Shuanger returned and stayed up late sewing by lamplight. Fortunately, they were in separate rooms, so there was little disturbance.
In the morning, Si Er and Xiao He brought breakfast. Jin Niang sketched a leaf with charcoal and said, “Today, try the long-and-short stitch. Don’t keep messing up and calling me over—power through without stopping.”
Si Er took up the needlework nearby, and Madam Chen took note. She was well aware that Lady Jiang had long since instructed them to train Si Er and Xiao He, as these two girls were meant to take over once they left. She’d only mentioned it in passing to the seamstresses, but only Wei Jinniang had started teaching Si Er, while the rest paid no mind to the junior maids.
After some thought, she said to Qin Shuanger and Fang Qiaolian, “As for Xiao He, both of you should teach her more.”
It was hardly decent to boss them about without offering any instruction.
Xiao He looked at Qin Shuanger hopefully. In her eyes, Fang Qiaolian was fond of dressing up and not very approachable, while Wei Jinniang had average popularity—too quick-witted and intimidating, and rather plump. Only Qin Shuanger was gentle and steady, with many friends; being seen with her carried clout.
Sure enough, Qin Shuanger smiled and said, “Then I’ll teach Xiao He.”
Madam Chen nodded approvingly. “That’s good. After Shanjie left, there are only three of you now. If you can teach Si Er and Xiao He, we’ll have two more helpers.”
Fang Qiaolian merely smiled and remained silent.
As Madam Chen observed the three of them, she sized them up. In the entire needlework room, Qin Shuanger seemed the most popular and dignified, but in truth, she was book-smart yet lacking street sense—willing to throw herself into danger like a moth to flame. Fang Qiaolian, on the surface, loved dressing up and seemed aloof, but she had schemes—but those very schemes boxed her in. As for Jin Niang, during the bamboo garment incident, she’d pleaded ignorance at first, yet was the one who managed to repair it.
She rarely provoked hatred despite conflicts, neither flattered superiors nor bullied subordinates, was diligent and clever, and had a shrewd mind—truly intelligent.
After assigning Xiao He’s instruction, Madam Chen turned away. Green Tassel came over to ask Jin Niang about the pearl-studded gown, saying, “The Eldest Madam is asking why the design hasn’t been brought over yet?”
Jin Niang smiled. “Alright, I’ll bring it right away.”
What she disliked most was others altering her designs—know-nothings bossing experts around. But since Green Tassel had mentioned it, she had no choice but to bring the design over.
If only one day she could work at the Brocade Pavilion, where all her creations would be made exactly as she envisioned.
Sure enough, when she presented it, Lady Jiang was somewhat dissatisfied. “How extravagant—why are the pearls only sewn onto the stomacher?”
Jin Niang took a deep breath, preparing to persuade her. “If I may suggest, nowadays nine out of ten pearl gowns are embroidered either on the stomacher or along the collar. But the collar is too long and requires pearls on both sides, meaning at least seventy or eighty pearls would be needed. In my opinion, embroidering red peonies on the stomacher—using fine satin—would make it look regal yet understated.”
She then showed Lady Jiang her copy of Xu Xi’s red peony painting. “This is what I plan to embroider on the stomacher. There’s also a highlight—the pouch—but since that will be added after the gown is finished, I haven’t drawn it yet.”
Upon seeing the peony, Lady Jiang was somewhat convinced. She laid the sketch down and asked, “I heard you were the one who repaired the Second Young Master’s bamboo garment last time?”
“Yes. Last time, Cui Xian came to the needlework room and asked a few people, but none of them had seen such a garment before. I happened to have read about it in a book, so I gave it a try—and surprisingly, it worked.” Jin Niang didn’t boast about her achievement.
If she appeared too capable, someone might force her to become a concubine, exploit her skills without pay, and cast her out once she aged. She wasn’t that foolish.
Lady Jiang found Jin Niang’s reasoning clear and reliable. “Very well. From now on, you don’t need to take on any other tasks—just focus on this one.”
“Yes, I obey, Madam,” Jin Niang replied.
After Jin Niang left, Lady Jiang felt quite pleased with herself. The intricate embroidery and pearl gown would cost at least fifteen taels if commissioned outside, but having her own seamstresses do it only cost one tael per month.
Meanwhile, the Auntie had Shanjie make clothes for her daughter. She was much better off now—not because of anything else, but because the Old Madam had been subsidizing her. The gardenia-hued silk gauze, for instance, had been given by the Old Madam.
Her only concern was her daughter’s marriage. With ample silver, the Old Madam had promised to provide a dowry, and she had her daughter show kindness to the maidservants, ensuring their loyalty.
“How about pairing it with a lake-blue three-pleated skirt? What do you think?” Shanjie had once glimpsed Jin Niang’s sketchbook and remembered her using this combination.
The Auntie nodded inwardly. Without spending a single coin, she had secured a skilled embroiderer for her daughter. As the saying went, “Clothes make the woman.” If her daughter dressed well, she might catch the eye of a wealthy family when meeting guests.
What she hadn’t anticipated was that by taking Jiang Shi’s people, Jiang Shi would hold such a grudge—even forbidding her daughter from greeting honored guests during her birth banquet. The Old Madam was her birth mother, but she no longer managed affairs and rarely went out. As a guest here, she received no invitations herself, which infuriated her.
Even in fine clothes, she couldn’t go out to meet guests.
Brooding over this, she picked out her least-favorite sweets, had them boxed, and went to visit Lady Jiang. Unexpectedly, at the door, she encountered two young men approaching together. The older one was tall and handsome, wearing a brocade robe and a purple-gold crown, exuding natural nobility. The younger one was even more strikingly handsome.
These two were Lady Jiang’s nephews from her maiden family. The Auntie thought of the Jiang family’s official status and immense wealth, and her pulse quickened.
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